It was well into the night (at least for Yogyakartans) when we landed at the Adi Sucipto airport in Yogya. It is said to be the cultural capital of Indonesia, and it is. When we walked out of the arrival hall, the place was buzzing with cacophony of noises from babies, vendors, vehicles and people picking up their relatives who come to Yogya for Lebaran – the Eid ul Fitr holiday. It was a cool night, and as we drove out of the airport, we started feeling the cool breeze of the evening.
We plan on staying at d’Omah, a guest house that utilizes an old joglo, decorated with Javanese antiques, that lies beside rice fields in the middle of a kampung. We were already thrilled when we checked out the website (my family is very fond of antiques), and was satisfied with how the guest house really looks. It was exactly as we expected. Only better. 😀 What makes it even better is that even though we only rent 2 rooms (out of 3), there was no one else but us!! So we have the house for ourselves – including the swimming pool, the living room, the terrace area, the reception room and other rooms in between.
As in this area pictures speak louder than words, so here is a glimpse of it…
Then, you know how food and eating is very much correlate with your mood? Since our mood was very good once we settled in the house, we got hungry again and we ordered food from d’Omah. It turns out that the chef previously worked for Melia Hotel in Yogya – the food was goood… My favorite is Nasi Goreng Magelangan – a mix of fried rice and fried noodle.
The day after we woke up early so that we can enjoy the house in the daylight. We explored the house, amazed by the collection of Javanese antique furniture that was very-well preserved by an Australian artist, Warwick Purser. The old joglo, the nicely-combined pieces of antique, the paddy field in front of the house, the swimming pool in the back yard, by the terrace that blends in with the neighboring kampung, emphasizes the solemnness of Javanese culture in the Bantul regency of Yogyakarta.
The Bantul regency has Desa Wisata Tembi – or Tembi tourism village. The village has lots of guest houses and home stay places as it is among the most well-managed and cleanest villages in Yogyakarta. The village is made famous (to me, at least) mostly by an Australian who came there in 1995 and established Out of Asia, which is now the largest exporter of handicrafted goods in Indonesia. Yes, Warwick Purser.
His life is quite a story itself. And is a very inspiring one. His initial goal was to provide a working place to at least one member of each family in the Tembi village of 800 villagers. And not only did he achieved it, he surpassed it. In the village now you can also visit the workshop, with different handicraft made from different materials, incl. leather, rattan, and other types of natural fibers.
As planned, we filled our day with culinary enjoyment. According to our guide book Wisata Makanan di Yogyakarta, published by Intisari, one of the most interesting thing that is located in Bantul area is a rumah where an old lady called mbah Marto sells one of the best tasting mangut lele. Her house is located in the middle of a kampung, but luckily the driver from d’Omah knows the place and he drove us there.
Mbah Marto’s house is a very humble house, with long benches and long table on the terrace, and another set of long benches and table inside the house. When I walked into the house, I was wondering about where the food was because I see none! Then some one came out and told us in boso Jowo that the food is in the kitchen and you should go there and pick it up yourself.
So I walked into the house, passed the washing area, and then into the kitchen where there were close to a dozen of different dishes. The kitchen smells nicely of kayu bakar and smoke – and indeed the lele for the mangut was smoked!! That’s why it tastes special! Other than that there was fried chicken, different vegetable dishes, ayam garang asem, tahu and tempe. I chose mangut, sayur singkong, and sambal goreng krecek. Perfected by a piece of kerupuk and a glass of sweet ice tea.
By the time we were done eating, it was almost 12. The sun is at its highest, and for dry Yogyakarta, it makes it really hot. So it was only fitting that we chose es kopyor Giritirto to be our second destination. Yummy, and it costs only idr 5,000 (appr. 50 usd cents). My brother said that he would prefer to pay double to get double amount of kopyor inside one glass though. Hehe.
I guess one needs more than one glass of kopyor to satisfy one’s dose of freshness in a hot day in Yogya. And one needs more than one blogpost to write about Yogya… So, see you guys in a bit!